Mingo and Grace (For Me This Time)

I’ve been testing Mingo and Grace patterns since the very beginning.  Usually in V’s size.  This time though, for her 4th pattern, Farrah made a women’s pattern.  It’s based on the Blake dress (link to my post because I can’t seem to find it on the Mingo and Grace website) but modified for women.  For women, the bodice has darts (both at the front and back), and a few options.  The skirt can be either gathered or pleated the same way as the girls’ dress.  With the same pockets hidden in the folds! The top can be made with or without sleeves and the sleeveless version can be made with or without that racerback from the small dress.  So the pattern comes with three bodice patterns.  Because sleeveless bodices should have tighter armscyes. I really appreciate that Farrah did that. So many patterns just have you omit the sleeves and you end up with gaping at the armhole.

My favorite view is the pleated skirt and racerback sleeveless top but I chose to test the version with sleeves. I figured it might have more fitting issues that would need adjusting.  And yes.  These are the second sleeve Farrah made.

It’s a very fitted sleeve so range of movement is limited.  You can see it pulling in the pictures.  If I’d had enough fabric, I would have tried cutting the sleeve on the bias to give it some stretch.  One or two of the testers suggested that trick.

Note that this is a tester version and only my muslin.  The final version has a higher neckline. And no gaping there.  Besides, I didn’t staystitch that neckline so it could very well be my fault.

I’m sure the more experienced fitters out there will notice that the darts aren’t quite right on my bodice (too long).  I made the bodice as is for testing purposes.  For my final version, I’ll be shortening those darts some.  And possibly moving or angling them in. Farrah has them lined up with the pleat so angling the darts in would keep them matching up with the pleats while getting the end at the right spot.  I’ll have to try it out when I get my fabric.

I used a home dec weight fabric here.  It was on the thick side but since it’s a twill, it still has some drape. This is a great pattern for fabrics with quite a bit of body though.  It’ll help the skirt flare out.  Honestly, I’m surprised at how much I like this silhouette.  Pleated and gathered skirts aren’t usually very friendly to me but I really like how this one looks.  And if huge birdcages were my style, I would actually wear this dress out.

Blue zipper and all.

Maybe I’ll make matching dresses for the girls and I and then M can pretend he doesn’t know us when we go out…

About deuxsouriceaux

Creative mommy at home to two wonderful little girls, trying to juggle family, sewing, exercise, family, knitting, photography, and did I mention family?