I’ll have something to wear…
The girls both had Spring break last week. I had these pants cut out and partially assembled before and I hoped to finish them during the week. Nope. I don’t know what happened. I wasn’t expecting to get a lot done but I have been able to sew a decent amount with them at home in the past. This time, by Friday, the lack of alone time had me in a constant frazzled state. Saturday, I had to let M take the girls with him (they bought flowers and planted them) and I managed to finish the pants. At the end of the day, M took some pictures but he was feeling a bit sick and low on energy so we stopped before I was happy with the results. So, yeah, pants are in the shadow and that’s all I’ve got because it’s been cloudy and rainy ever since.
So. Details.
The top is Jalie 2682, made from Art Gallery knit. I’de been meaning to try these knits for a long, loooong time but could never find a print I liked in stock. It might be my favorite cotton-spandex knit. We’ll see how it wears but right now, I love it for its softness, recovery, and thickness. I want to make the girls leggings out of it to see how it wears.
Anyhow, I made a size V like I always do. It’s two sizes below what the size chart says but I like the fit, especially when I go sleeveless. The one time I made a size X, it was way too baggy at the underarms. Even here, I had to take in about 1/4″ at each side seam. There was little gap at the front. A small dart would have been perfect but I didn’t want to mess with the lines.
The pants are the Marrakesh Drawstring Pants by Hot Patterns. I’ve made up a couple of their free patterns before and finally bought some a few months back. I have these store bought rayon pants that I love wearing in the Summer. They’re fluid and comfortable, fitted at the hips but with wider legs. The only thing I don’t like about them is the pockets. They have flaps that stick out a bit. This pattern was exactly what I wanted: wider legs, fitted hips, a bit more ease at the waist. And the drawstring is two pieces of fabric sewn to an elastic. The elastic doesn’t show on the outside but it makes the drawstring so much more comfortable! I got some rayon chambray (Robert Kaufman) to make them up. The drape was exactly right. And the texture is so cool!
My measurements put me right between a 10 and a 12. I chose to make a 10 to make sure I wouldn’t get too much looseness. I did make a muslin and it seemed okay. I thought I might reduce the seam allowances from 5/8″ to 1/2″ in a couple spot to get me 1/2″ extra space. And then I forgot. Oops.
You can see a bit of snugness there in the back. It doesn’t feel too tight and doesn’t impede movement so I want to wait and see what happens after a day’s wear. The fabric may relax and then I’ll be happy I went with the smaller size.
Speaking of fabric, I had a hard time with it. It’s very slinky and moves out of shape when you look at it wrong. I only thought of using spray starch once it was too late… So there’s some wonkiness at one of the pockets (the right hand one). I might try to stitch it down a little. And next time, I doing patch pockets instead. And adding patch pockets on the back.
On the waist, you can see the drawstrings really close to the center. Right where the right hand drawstring is, there should have been a button. I don’t know what happened. I checked the pattern markings against the waistband to see where they would end up and everything seemed fine so I went ahead. And there. I used a sew in snap instead.
Otherwise, the drafting is good except for a missing notch on the front leg pattern. The instructions for the zipper were a little confusing. I mashed them up with the instructions in the Sewtionary but next time, I’ll just follow the instructions from the book. The crotch curve was a bit odd too. There was an angle on the back curve and some weirdness when I sewed up the inseam. It seems to work but I think I might try to switch up the curve next time, just to see.
Now, onto work on my current dress obsession…
I’ve meant to try Art Gallery Knits for a while too… it’s good to hear that you like them! I like the texture of that chambray too!
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I can’t wait to see how the Art Gallery holds up, especially compared to the laguna stretch and Girl Charlee stuff I’ve already made up. I guess that means I need to make more leggings for the girls (it’s the item of clothing that gets the most abuse).
Funny thing about the chambray is that it didn’t have the texture in the samples I had (I bought the Kaufman sample cards in order to make smart decisions). I like it better with the texture though.
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Oh I am obsessed with Art Gallery fabrics! The knits and the voile are amazing!! I love the quilting cotton too, so soft, although I am a bit scared of it now because Quinn tore the neckline of one of my dresses eagerly trying to nurse a while back.. I know he’s a strong kid, but I don’t think the might of a 1 year old should be enough to tear fabric!!
I’m always a little scared of sewing pants, those crotch seams are just crazy and there is so much about the fitting of them that I haven’t learned (and I don’t really have the time or patience for 10 muslins and self-learning lol) I would love to take an in-person class one day..
Anyways, I’ve been hearing the weather up on the East coast has been so weird lately, I hope spring come to you soon!!! I was just remembering the time it was 20 degrees on May 14 like 20 years ago in Jersey, I had an outside birthday party planned for a friend of mine, I was not to be thwarted!!! I just passed out scarves and gloves to everyone and we partied on 😀
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I hope to try all the Art Gallery substrates at some point! I’ve heard so many good things about them. I don’t know what’s taken me so long.
Pants scare me too! Until now, I’ve muslined them and the fit was good enough to move forward. The thing is, maybe the fit could be better but yeah, I don’t have the will to make a million muslins just to see what works best. Because it isn’t just about what “they” say is the best fit. It’s about the fit that feels more comfortable for you (both in terms of physical comfort and appearance).
And I’m so happy to see you again! I missed you. You moved your blog, right? I think I signed up for e-mails a while ago (don’t remember doing it but must have) but I only just got the e-mail for your last post. Never got the other ones… I’ve got you on Bloglovin’ now though so I won’t miss your posts anymore.
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Yeah I moved from WordPress dot com to a hosted site in WordPress dot org- And lost all my followers in the process 😫 I thought since they were both WordPress and my url was the same that there would be no problem but I sure was wrong!!
And that is so true about the pants, they could look good but feel terrible and vice versa.. I don’t have it in me to try again for at least a year- I’m not about to try and perfect a fit for this body that is sure to change drastically in the next long while!!
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